C-Beauty’s Global Challenge: Why Chinese Beauty Brands’ Overseas Retail Expansion Has Been a Slow Slog

Chinese beauty brands hold a significant share of the domestic market, which is the world’s second largest globally, with products ranging from cosmetics to skincare and personal care lines deeply rooted in local consumer culture and “Guóchāo” (China-chic) aesthetics. Industry data show that China’s beauty retail sector achieved strong online sales driven by platforms like Douyin and Xiaohongshu, where livestreaming and influencer engagement have become key growth engines. Domestic purchasing trends increasingly favour localized brands with innovative ingredients and culturally relevant branding, particularly among Gen Z consumers. 

However, translating this domestic dominance into success in overseas markets remains challenging. A prominent example is Mao Geping Cosmetics, which, despite raising roughly US$300 million in its Hong Kong IPO with explicit plans to expand in Singapore, Japan, France, and the UK, has seen lacklustre retail traffic and limited consumer uptake at its first overseas store. The quiet response in cosmopolitan shopping destinations highlights the gap between brand investment and international market resonance. 

Industry insiders point to deep systemic hurdles. Many C-beauty brands lack basic international brand recognition outside of Asia, and their marketing narratives, often steeped in Chinese heritage, can fail to connect with global consumers unfamiliar with those cultural cues. Western and regional markets demand strong brand storytelling, quality assurance, and after-sales support systems that many newer Chinese players have yet to fully master. Additionally, logistical complexities such as cross-border retail distribution, regulatory compliance, and local partner networks have slowed physical store rollouts. 

At the same time, there are selective signs of strategic pivots. Some brands have employed hybrid strategies combining flagship stores with online marketplaces and strategic partnerships. For instance, certain C-beauty names have opened counters in European luxury travel retail environments and pursued placements with established U.S. retailers like Urban Outfitters, diversifying the channels through which they interact with international consumers. Competitive analysts argue that success outside China will depend on brands developing nuanced pricing models, tailored product offerings, and robust omni-channel experiences that align with diverse consumer behaviours across regions. 

In summary, many C-beauty brands remain in the early innings of global expansion. While their domestic performance showcases cultural resonance and operational agility, overseas growth has proven to be far more complex, requiring not just capital but long-term strategic investment in brand building, cross-cultural marketing, and supply-chain integration to compete with established global beauty players.